Anyone can read a product label, but to actually know what all of those hard-to-pronounce ingredients mean is an entirely different story.
I started analyzing each item in my house to see what to replace. But things have snowballed from there because what I found absolutely shocked me.
Many product ingredients cause irritation and inflammation so they include other ingredients to counteract potential side effects. Others combine to form cancer causing compounds.
Companies are adding aspirin to products as well as things to bind to heavy metals and other toxins. I have a hard time understanding why this is necessary if the other ingredients are good.
I’m building this source in an effort to help others make informed choices for their own product choices. This list is in alphabetical order for convenience. I’ll be adding ingredients as I come across them.
Tip:
Use the “find in page” function to skip right to the ingredient you’re looking for.
Important Information
The European Union has banned over 1,300 ingredients from cosmetic products alone, while America’s FDA has only banned or restricted 11. This could be the connect to Americans having greater health issues.
INCI is short for International Nomenclature of Cosmetics Ingredients.
Manufacturers of cosmetics and personal care products are required by law to list all of the ingredients in their formula. They must use the INCI name as a form of unified standards.
I’m having someone deep dive into the legal requirements of the health and beauty industries. I’ll be creating a post based on her results.
But from the little bit I’ve looked into, companies don’t have to prove that personal care products are safe or effective before selling them.
The manufacturers of personal hygiene and cosmetic products are self-regulating, meaning that they set their own rules for what they label as “natural” or “organic.” Always look for third party organic certification labels.
This is exactly why you have to do your own diligence.
Definitions That May Be Useful
Carcinogen
Carcinogens are substances, organisms, or agents capable of causing cancer.
Surfactants
Surfactants are chemical compounds that decrease the surface tension between two substances. They function as emulsifiers, wetting agents, detergents, foaming agents, or dispersants.
Product companies tote surfactant by telling is that they attract dirt and oil so it rinses off easier.
Ingredients
1,4-dioxane
This chemical is used as a stabilizer for chlorinated solvents.
1, 4-dioxane isn’t a personal care product ingredient itself, so it won’t be listed on any labels.
But it’s often an unwanted by-product or contaminant of other ingredients that make suds like bubble bath, shampoo, laundry detergent, soap, skin cleanser, and others.
Inhalation may cause vertigo, headache, nausea, and irritation of the eyes, nose, throat, and lungs. It may also irritate the skin.
Chronic exposure may damage the liver, kidneys, and cause cancer.
This chemical is classified as a probable human carcinogen (Group B2) by the EPA.
Commonly contaminates:
- sodium laureth sulfate (SLES)
Aqua
Aqua is the official name of water in the INCI. Water’s a good ingredient as long as it’s not contaminated.
The quality of water used in the production of cosmetics and personal care products is supposed to be free of toxins, pollutants, and microbes. It’s also supposed to be monitored.
I’m not sure how much I believe that this is actually happening based on many expert’s comments about companies not having to prove that products are safe.
Benzene
This is a known carcinogen.
Cetyl Alcohol
This is a fatty alcohol chemical that is mostly derived from either vegetable or coconut oils.
Cetyl alcohol is used to increase and stabilize foaming capacity, as an emulsifier, a thickening agent, to soften skin and hair, to prevent drying and chapping, and to make products opaque.
Though this ingredient is considered to be relatively safe, some side effects might include irritation, stinging, burning, redness, or inflammation. Some people may experience an allergic reaction as a rash or hives.
Most data indicates that cetyl alcohol has a very well established record of safety.
Citric Acid
This is a weak acid that is naturally found in all citrus fruits. Many companies add it to their product ingredients to act as a preservative or a flavor enhancer.
Artificial citric acid is made from a fungus called Aspergillus. Most types are harmless. However, some can cause a variety of diseases ranging from allergic reactions to life-threatening diseases.
Your guess is as good as mine on whether the citric acid in your product is natural or synthetic.
Cocamide DEA
Cocamide DEA (coconut oil diethanolamine condensate) is made by chemically altering coconut oil with the chemical diethanolamine (DEA).
This product is used as a surfactant, emulsifier, foam booster, and thickening agent in products.
In small doses, cocamide DEA can cause allergic reactions and rashes. Large doses may cause cancer, especially since it bioaccumulates over time. This is why California banned its use.
Some product companies have reached an agreement to remove cocamide DEA from their products. But there are more than 100 others that have not yet resolved litigation brought by the Center for Environmental Health which is a consumer advocacy group.
Europe doesn’t specifically prohibit cocamide DEA but they do ban diethanolamine which is used in it’s chemical creation.
See diethanolamine or ethanolamine for more information.
Cocamide MEA
Cocamide MEA (cocamide monoethanolamine) is made by chemically altering coconut oil with the chemical ethanolamine.
This product is used as a surfactants, foam booster, and a viscosity increasing agent in products.
This chemical may cause skin and serious eye irritation. It’s toxic if swallowed yet we rinse it down our drains that get recycled into our drinking water. (FYI our skin absorbs things which is similar to ingesting.)
Europe doesn’t specifically prohibit cocamide MEA but they do ban ethanolamine which is used in it’s chemical creation.
See diethanolamine or ethanolamine for more information.
Cocamidopropyl Betaine (CAPB)
CAPB is an synthetic detergent that is increasingly used in shampoos, contact lens solutions, toothpaste detergents, makeup removers, bath gels, skin care products, cleansers, liquid soaps, antiseptics, and other hygiene products because of it’s mild nature.
It’s used to make products creamier, increase foaming, to thicken, and retain hydration.
Though side effects are less frequent than other surfactant chemicals, it can still cause skin irritation and inflammation, eye irritation, and allergic reactions.
I can’t find any evidence that this chemical is banned anywhere, but some high standard companies have removed it from their products because it can cause skin sensitization.
It’s up to you whether you’re okay with this ingredient or not.
Diethanolamine (DEA)
Might also be known as DEOA. This is a ethanolamine compound.
This is a water soluble substance that is used as a base for other chemicals to act as soaps and surfactants used in liquid laundry detergents, dish detergents, cosmetics, shampoos, and hair conditioners.
This chemical may cause skin, eye, nose and throat irritation. Long term oral exposure effects the liver, kidneys, blood, and central nervous system. (FYI our skin absorbs things which is similar to ingesting.)
There are also studies that show a few very concerning issues. DEA may affect sperm’s ability to swim and fertilize the egg.
It accumulates in the liver and kidney, causing organ toxicity and also possible neurotoxic effects such as tremors. DEA may also affect one’s memory function and brain development in children based on their mother’s exposure.
Europe has banned DEA in cosmetics due to its formation of carcinogenic nitrosamines.. However as of February 2022, the FDA believes that there is no reason for consumers to be alarmed by the use of this substance in cosmetics.
In 2013, the chemical was classified by the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) as “possibly carcinogenic to humans” (Group 2B).
This is an ingredient in the following chemicals:
- Cocamide DEA
- Cocamide MEA
- DEA-Cetyl Phosphate
- DEA Oleth-3 Phosphate
- Lauramide DEA
- Linoleamide MEA
- Myristamide DEA
- Oleamide DEA
- Stearamide MEA
- TEA-Lauryl Sulfate
- Triethanolamine (TEA)
See diethanolamine for more information.
Eau
This is the French term for water. In Canada, a company is required by law to add the French terms for products on their labels.
Ethanolamines
Ethanolamine compounds are used as emulsifying agents, fragrances, and pH adjusters in soaps, cosmetics, household cleaning products, and other personal care products.
DEAa, MEAa and TEAs are all ethanolamine compounds. Europe has banned these chemicals, but they are still legal in America.
Ethanolamine compounds have been linked to hormone disruption, cancer, liver tumors, and they accumulate in the liver and kidneys which causes toxicity.
The following ingredients have ethanolamine compounds:
- DEA-cetyl phosphate
- DEA oleth-3 phosphate
- triethanolamine (TEA)
- diethanolamine (DEA)
- cocamide DEA
- cocamide MEA
- lauramide DEA
- linoleamide MEA
- myristamide DEA
- oleamide DEA
- TEA-lauryl sulfate
- stearamide MEA
See DEA for more information.
Fragrance, Parfum, or Scent
Any one of these ingredients is code for chemicals that add synthetic smell to a product.
Many fragrance ingredients are respiratory irritants and sensitizers, which can trigger asthma attacks and aggravate sinus conditions.
Fragrance chemicals are known to cause headaches, nausea, forgetfulness, loss of coordination, eye, nose, and throat irritation, and other respiratory and/or neurotoxic symptoms.
The European Union has banned certain substances that are still legal in the United States and are hidden under the label of fragrance or parfum.
Green 3
This is a synthetic pigment or food dye used to make color products aquamarine or turquoise.
It’s classed chemically as a triphenylmethane color.
Green 3 has been shown to cause bladder and reproductive organ tumors in rats. It’s also linked with behavioral changes, hyperactivity (including ADHD), irritability, depression, and even hives.
Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES)
Also known as sodium alkylethersulfate.
SLES is a very effective surfactant. This is what makes it an good detergent, cleanser, and foaming agent. It’s also used a an emulsifying agent.
This chemical is known to cause eye and skin irritations like rashes, dermatitis, eczema, and psoriasis. It may also cause dizziness, headaches, or disrupt the body’s hormones.
SLES is banned in the European Union because it’s a known skin irritant. I also read that some cosmetic companies use it to induce irritation when conducting trials. What test results are they skewing?
It’s possible that the irritation it causes may be due to its frequent contaminates: ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane. Cheap products are usually not pure. And this chemical is known for being inexpensive.
Both of these two chemicals contaminants are considered to be carcinogenic.
See ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane for more details.
Stearyl Alcohol
Stearyl alcohol is a compound produced from stearic acid which is a naturally occurring fatty acid.
It’s used as a thickener that changes the viscosity while adding stability to personal care products.
This is usually considered to be a non irritating ingredient. However, some people may experience burning, stinging, redness, or irritation.
Stearyl alcohol has been a cosmetic staple for a long-time. It has a well-studied, proven track record of safety.
Talc or Talcum Powder
Also known as baby powder because that was a common known use. But it’s also in cosmetics, deodorant, soap, toothpaste, chewing gum, food, and drug tablets.
Talcum powder is an insoluble clay mineral. It’s added to products to absorb moisture, prevent irritation, add softness and shine to products. It may also be used as a bulking agent.
Talc inhalation can cause wheezing, coughing, chest pain, and difficulty breathing.
Talcum powder isn’t necessarily harmful by itself. However it may contain asbestos, whose thin silicate (glass) fibers cause irritation and inflammation that damage cells and may lead to lung cancer.
Europe has banned talc from use in cosmetic products. Even thought it’s not illegal in America, many companies have removed talc from their products.
Johnson & Johnson has removed it completely most likely due to a large number of lawsuits. However, studies now show mixed results on talc and other types of cancer.
It sounds like other ingredients or cheap quality talc containing asbestos are more likely to be the cause of negative health effects.
Water
This is usually listed as aqua and/or eau. See aqua for more info.
Is Something Missing?
If you’re curious about an ingredient that isn’t listed here, please let me know down in the comments. I’m constantly updating this list.